Another side to Rio’s New Year Celebration

Black, White, Brown, all dance to the drum beats on the white sand offering gifts and praises for a blessed New Year. Since I am not fluent in the language I dance along in ignorance with those around me. Brown faces, White faces, Black faces. The African beat of the drum and the chanting rhythm of the voices provide a rhythmic melody to sway along. But this is not something special just for those who can clearly trace their lineage to the shores of Western Africa. As I walk out to the beach I see more diverse faces participating not as tourists, not as observers but as believers in the traditions of Candomble. Though the history of this celebration has African roots it is not a Black only celebration, in this case it is a Brazilian celebration. For when you are in Brazil it is this experience, a true integration of the cultures that continues to often surprise me.We see families sharing in the tradition, preparing for another year by sharing their offering to Yemanja together. An altar of white flowers and candles are placed in the sand as the family stands around. Eventually someone will walk to the water to send their offering into the waves. Instantly it is enveloped by the night waters rushing against the shore. Yemanja, one of the Orixas that are part of the Candomble, is the goddess of the sea and the mother of all creation. It is to her they are asking blessing for the approaching new year.

I am a tourist, staying in one of the many hotels on Copacabana, who happened upon this celebration on a early night stroll down the beach walkway. I see a white tent and people in matching shirts dancing and singing. Their shirts state that this is the 6th annual celebration for this particular organization to bring an Afro-Brazillian traditional celebration to Copacabana beach.

Earlier in the day when talking with a Rio native, a Carioca as they are known in Brazil, she shared how the Reveillon New Years party in Copacabana beach has replaced the traditional spirituality she remembers of her childhood. The spirituality that was such a strong part of the New Years celebration is now mostly seen in the days leading up to December 31st. When she was younger her family, dressed in white, would arrive on Copacabana beach to create their offering for Yemanja. Together they would celebrate and pray for a blessed New Year. Her connection to the spirituality of the New Year’s celebration is even more fascinating since she sees this as part of her Brazilian identity and she is not Afro-Brazilian.

She says to see the spiritual side of the New Year’s celebration, I should visit Copacabana on the 29th or 30th. It is on her advice that I end of dancing under a tent on Copacabana beach to the beat of a drum surrounded by these many faces. I walk to the sand and feel at once connected to the energy that surrounds me. You see how a country that like the U.S., that has a history of slavery can learn from the many cultures that are a part of its heritage. Many have learned the traditions, not just those that share the same skin color, or who are direct descendents of slaves, or come from the same region of the country. They are united as Brazilians and it is amazing to see.

This experience is not to be missed and I suggest that those planning to come to Rio for New Year’s plan to arrive a few days early so you too can connect with this other side of the celebration. Share your offering to Yemanja and then party into the New Year with the rest of the many faces that make up Rio. To see the true festival for Yemanja you must travel to Bahia in February.