The New Shockoe Bottom

I remember growing up in Shockoe Bottom, located east of downtown along the James River, in my hometown of Richmond, VA.  Before the millennium ages, Shockoe Bottom was the more industrial part of Richmond, where many goods were loaded and unloaded.  Apart from the industrial feel, for me, Shockoe Bottom was like a gregarious countryside Caribbean Island.  Within a five block radius you were surrounded by several small family owned businesses and the largest Farmer’s Market.  There would even be, on rare occasions, a man on a mule or tugging a cow, passing through.  The people of Shockoe Bottom were a community of friends, whom bonded well and supported each other’s businesses. And I remember my Dad’s business, Pacific Seafood Market, located at 19 18^th St. 

On a recent trip home (to lend a hand in my mom’s latest entrepreneurial venture) my burning desire led me to revisit Shockoe Bottom, the community which felt like immediate family during my adolescent days.  It’s been over 17 years, since my Daddy, sold his Seafood Market, and that was probably the last time I visited the neighborhood and stepped foot into the market, and boy has a lot changed.

The new Shockoe Bottom, is now the pulse of the city.  With its gentrification it has attracted a younger urban affluent crowd; from suburban college kids to the new young and articulate urban black kids.  If you Google nightlife in Richmond, VA, I’m sure Shockoe Bottom will appear at the top of the search.  The Farmer’s Market, which now only meets on the weekends between 10AM and 2PM, by nightfall becomes a parking lot for the young crowd to park their iconic “up-to-the-minute” rides.  What was once Mr. Ralph’s grocery store, Mr. David’s barbershop, and a host of other small family owned businesses, are now Hookah Bars, Nightclubs, trendy wine bar. Upscale restaurants serve everything from South American dishes, to Italian, to Indian Food to Southeast Asian Food, and the old factories are now seductive dwelling lofts for sale and rent.   The sleek design of the lofts are so appealing, that I began to ponder moving back to Richmond, just for the new alluring feel.  Although for a second I was a bit appalled by the change because it felt like a lot of history and culture had been erased.  However, I had no say in the restoration of the area because I’m no longer a resident of Richmond therefore I embraced the change and continued to enjoy the newness. 

After about a thirty-minute walk, scoping out the hot spots and the very sexy crowd of young men and women, it was time for food.  With so much to choose from I did get a bit overwhelmed, but I had already had my heart set on La Bamba Mexican Restaurant, which was formerly Pacific Seafood Market some 17 years ago. 

The transformation was so different.  The feel was completely different, but I remember walking in with a sense of ownership, and became very chatty as the waitress pleasantly seated me.  I felt a bit aged as I told the waitress about the history of the building and how I grew up in it.  What caught my eye instantly was the walk-in deep freezer where my Dad stored all the fresh seafood and meat.  Still intact however, it wasn’t as deep as I remember. To the left of the freezer the wall was knocked out, replaced by a door, which lead to patio seating.  I was correct in my observation that the walk-in freezer wasn’t deep anymore because I annoyingly asked the waitress, “Is that a walk-in freezer?” She responded, “Well not really walk-in, it’s just a big icebox.”  She was very warm and patient with me.  “Yeah, it was walk-in,” I turn and say in a seven-year old voice, to my friend Paul who accompanied me that evening.  I sounded and felt like little Cornelius running around the Market back in the day. 

Paul, my tall muscular friend, with chocolate brown skin, pearly white teeth, and sleepy eyes, was excited to sit in a booth.  I liked his choice.  It was exactly where our fish display cases use to rest.  And the booth was very comfortable.  It was unique to see how you can construct something like a fish market into a cozy Mexican restaurant.  The updated Spanish motif felt as authentic as you can get.  I mean, Richmond, is not Mexico, however, the owner and cooks are natives of Mexico, and they treated us very well.  At one point during dinner the owner came to speak to us personally about our drinks and meal. He shared how long La Bamba had been occupying the space - six years.   All in all, I didn’t feel cheated or tricked into some type of inauthentic Mexican experience.  Now, again, please don’t go here looking to experience Mexico, but you can get a slight taste of it, well at least from the food and the hospitality. 

By the way, my dish was simply delicious.  I ordered my normal request; chicken enchilada…Not everyone’s enchilada cooking is the same!  I must say La Bamba’s chicken enchilada was some kind of good though! And it was different from the others, mainly because at La Bamba all of their Mexican standards, burritos, and enchiladas are made from scratch.  Mmm…very reminiscent of Daddy’s cooking.  A lot of similarities lingering in the air like a sweet aroma of a pot roast lightly drizzled in caramel sauce and cider.  Accompanying my homemade chicken enchilada was no other than a La Bamba style margarita - pitron infused. Might I add the size of the margarita was enormous for such a small price.  Not one complaint from me, just pure praise!  All in all, I had a great experience at La Bamba, for one it brought me back to where it all began, the energy of family was there, the food was delicious, and it was extremely easy on the pockets.

If you’re ever in Richmond, Virginia I invite you to check out the nightlife in Shockoe Bottom and pay a visit to my new friends at La Bamba Mexican Restaurant. 

La Bamba
Mexican Restaurant
19 N. 18th St.,
Richmond, VA 23223
804-225-8883