Music of Carnaval - Bahia, Brazil 2009

Always wondered what Carnaval looked like? Here and see music and images from Carnaval in Salvador, Brazil 2009.

Natural Beauty

The National Park of the Chapada Diamantina is one of the most fascinating natural parks of Brazil. The mountain scenery contains an extraordinary variety of ecosystems, like Cerrado, Mata Atlantica, and Stone fields, Caatinga. The bromeliads and orchids find a privileged ambiance, adapting themselves to the differences in climate and altitude. The mountain tops reach a height of 5,660 feet and they offer shelter to the Jaguatiricas (local breed of feline) pumas, mocós (local rodents), deer’s, teiús (local reptile) and seriemas (local little ostrich) .

The massive quartz pieces, have undergone and resisted erosion, forming towers of minerals known as “TEPUY” by the local Indians of the Maracas and Cariris tribes, who dominated the region before the arrival of the first settlers or bandeirantes, around the year 1750. The most astonishing tepuis reach a height of 4,830 feet and they run across the municipalities of Palmeiras, Lençois e Mucugê . Read more

Ayê orum - Sisterhood of the Boa Morte Celebration in Cachoeira

Central to a program composed of all night vigils, masses, processions and Samba de Roda, is the sisterhood of Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte in Cachoeira. The commemoration is held annually beginning on the 13th of August and continues until 17th. The festival of Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte, founded in 1821, is one of the most important religious traditions in Brazil, which represents today a living document of the African experience in the new world.
The commemoration was begun at the beginning of Abolition and preserves those ties to the motherland which are characteristic of freedom-seeking African-descendent people. The ceremonies are rare and very rich, from the clothing and jewelry the women use in each ceremony, to the food offered at the house of the sisterhood, and the Samba de Roda which personalizes the non-religious part of the festival.
This devotion of the Sisterhood of Boa Morte was begun in the senzalas where the slaves came together at the end of day and seized the the opportunity to the discuss abolition, and to pray for the slaves who died during the struggles for the freedom. They asked Nossa Senhora to end slavery in Brazil.
Want to see this celebration in person? Email tbailey@escapetogether.com or call 1-877-980-1717 to get more information.

Bembé of Santo Amaro/ The Candomblé of Freedom.

The drumming of the rhythm of the orixás is heard coming from the municipal market. For three consecutive nights, the steady beat celebrates the stength of Afro-Brazilian culture in the region of Bahia around all Saints’ Bay, known as the Recôncavo. It echoes throught the squares, streets and alleyways of Santo Amaro da Purificação.

It is the sound of 100-year-old tradition, Bembé do Mercado, the only Candomblé ceremony that takes place in outdoor public space, the Municipal Market. Candomblé high priests known as babalorixás and priestesses known as ialorixá, as well as the spiritual sons and dughters “of the saints” from 40 different Candomblé houses and ethnic groups, meet to commemorate the end of slavery in Brazil in 1888.
The Bembé is a linguistc corruption of the Word Candomblé, does not have the slightest link to subservient gratitude to Princess Isabel for abolishing slavery. Instead it stands as a piece of historical evidence of the popular revolt against captivity. “It is the Candomblé of freedom.”
The sacred atabaque drums beats on the nights of May 10, 11 and 12, heralding and holding vigil over the offerings left by Candomblé worshipers and followers at the market. On the morning of the 13th, fireworks and the aroma of lavander signal the hight point of the festival, when people carrying baskets filled with gifts for Yemanjá and Oxum form a procession to Itapemba cove, on the beach in the Acupe district.

The Grill From Ipanema: A piece of Brazil in the heart of DC

Brazil is one of my favorite places on earth.  I love the people, the music, the culture and the food.  During the week of Carnaval, I was especially missing Brazil and wishing I could be in the thick of the parties and parades.  Instead I was stuck in my hometown of Washington DC, so a friend and I decided to take the 10 minute walk to one of my favorite spots in DC to get the feeling of being in Brazil.  We went to the Grill from Ipanema.  Located in the ethnic melting pot that is Adams Morgan, the Grill from Ipanema is a restaurant, bar, and occasional dance club that makes you feel you are in a café on Copacabana beach or Salvador de Bahia.  Featuring food, drinks, music, and staff from all over Brazil, it is a great introduction to Brazilian culture and cuisine.   

On this particular evening my friend and I started out with a cocktail to get us in a festive mood.  We opted for the marucujinha, a very refreshing and delicious cocktail made with passion fruit juice and cachaca, the sugar cane liquor Brazil is famous for.   It was so good that we had to have two more.  It was carnaval after all!   

For an appetizer we split the casquinha de siri which is sautéed crab with olive oil, garlic, tomato, cilantro, onion, and green pepper, and topped with roasted yucca flour.  It was quite tasty, but the dish was a little on the small side so I wouldn’t recommend sharing.  I was craving a moqueca, one of my favorite dishes from time spent in Bahia.  Moqueca is a seafood stew prepared in a blend of palm oil and coconut milk with fresh cilantro, tomato, onion, scallions and green pepper.  Grill from Ipanema serves two variations of moqueca with the choice of eight different kinds of seafood.  We chose to split the Moqueca a Baiana with shrimp.  It came bubbling in a clay pot with yucca puree served on the side.  This version had more of a tomato based stew than the versions I’ve eaten in Brazil, which are heavier on the coconut milk.  Still, the moqueca was absolutely delicious and generous enough to split.   Drinks and Appetizers typically cost $7 to $10 a pop.  Entrees hover around the $20 to $25 range 

The Grill from Ipanema also has one of the best happy hour deals in town.  From M-F 4:30-7:00pm you can get amazing caipirinhas for $3.99 and good deals on appetizers on appetizers as well.    

I have always received great service at the restaurant, which is saying a lot for DC.  This isn’t a city known for good customer service.  I don’t ever feel rushed at the Grill from Ipanema.  I’ve had four hour meals here without any problem.  Also, be sure to come during the warmer months when you can dine alfresco.  It is fantastic people watching.   

Grill from Ipanema is a little taste of Brazil with super friendly people, a great vibe, and tasty drinks and food.  If you love Brazil as much as I do, this is the place for you!   

Fhilos de Gandhy and other Blocos

They are immediately recognizable as you walk through the Carnaval areas. Men in white and blue with several beads around their neck. Over 10,000 men participate in the Bloco over the entire Carnaval and it is one of the most recognizable Blocos because of the intricate costume. Originally limited to Black men and followers of Candomble, over the years they have opened the Bloco to include all races and even allow tourists to participate. It is tradition for the men to give their beads to women in exchange for a passionate kiss. This is not a peck on the cheek or even a small kiss on the lips. These are the kisses that win awards and are usually shared by intimate partners. This has made the Bloco a draw for tourists looking for ways to connect with women watching or near the Carnaval.

Our very own Andre has participated in the Bloco for years. He explained that most of the men who are long time participants of the Fhilos de Ghandy stay in the middle of the group to enjoy the music. They also hope to connect with the original purpose of the Bloco, to spread a message of peace and tradition. The border and outer edges of the Bloco are often full of tourists and as the Bloco passed I saw many men happily participating in the tradition of kissing women who accepted their gift of beads. The beads worn by long time participants have been blessed so see if you can get someone to give you the beads without the kiss and you can still take advantage of the blessing.

The Fhilos de Ghandy is one of the most recognizable Blocos during Carnaval because of the elaborate costume. The other is the Masquerdas. The bloco is made up entirely of men dressed as women. Each year they take on a central theme for their costumes and this year they were superheroes. With red capes, horrible wigs, and water guns they follow behind their trio electrico in the Bloco, living out their annual drag celebration. As an outsider not aware of the tradition, I at first assumed that this was a drag group celebrating or possibly a gay group. This was not the case. We were told that in fact all, if not most, of the participants are straight men that only dress this way during Carnaval. From locals I learned that the group is made of mostly police officers and the water guns are actually a flirting technique similar to the beads of the Filhos de Ghandy. Women are shot with the water guns as the Bloco passes. Interesting way to pick up women…

From Markets, Cigars and Samba - a taste of Bahia

Cachoeira is the area of the state of Bahia in Brazil where the majority of the slaves entered the country. It has been said that Bahia boasts one of the largest concentrations of people of African descent in the world, second only to Nigeria. A tour of the Cachoeira area is not to be missed when visiting Bahia and is a little more than an hour by car from Salvador. It will provide you with a different side of Bahia than the urban pace and beautiful beaches of Salvador. Start in the market - Feira Popular in the small town Santo Amaro da Purificacao. Filled with beautiful chapels and buildings, it is a great place to see culture and learn a little of Bahia history. Here you will find everything from clothes and fresh food products to handmade cigars. Cachoeira is central to Afro-Brazillian history and the city has a museum that helps to highlight and tell the story of the slave trade in Brazil. You can also visit the sisterhood of the Boa Morte or visit a cigar factory and see the women hand roll cigars in front of you dressed in historical Bahian clothes.

We have done it all during a trip to Bahia and we share some of our views here.

Bad years can’t start in Rio

That is what I have now come to believe as I look out at the water and see the millions of smiling faces around me. Toasting on the beach in my all white, I am amazed at the level of joy that I feel and how happy everyone around me also is. They toss their flowers into the sea wishing for good luck in this new year and jump seven waves to get their seven wishes. We watch the fireworks and drink champagne as we wiggle our toes in the sand. Shouts of Feliz Ano Novo! Happy New Year!, are shared with friends and strangers alike. In the humid heat we dance along to the Samba in the middle of millions celebrating another year. This is Reveillon!  Read more

Another side to Rio’s New Year Celebration

Black, White, Brown, all dance to the drum beats on the white sand offering gifts and praises for a blessed New Year. Since I am not fluent in the language I dance along in ignorance with those around me. Brown faces, White faces, Black faces. The African beat of the drum and the chanting rhythm of the voices provide a rhythmic melody to sway along. But this is not something special just for those who can clearly trace their lineage to the shores of Western Africa. As I walk out to the beach I see more diverse faces participating not as tourists, not as observers but as believers in the traditions of Candomble. Though the history of this celebration has African roots it is not a Black only celebration, in this case it is a Brazilian celebration. For when you are in Brazil it is this experience, a true integration of the cultures that continues to often surprise me.We see families sharing in the tradition, preparing for another year by sharing their offering to Yemanja together. An altar of white flowers and candles are placed in the sand as the family stands around. Eventually someone will walk to the water to send their offering into the waves. Instantly it is enveloped by the night waters rushing against the shore. Yemanja, one of the Orixas that are part of the Candomble, is the goddess of the sea and the mother of all creation. It is to her they are asking blessing for the approaching new year.

I am a tourist, staying in one of the many hotels on Copacabana, who happened upon this celebration on a early night stroll down the beach walkway. I see a white tent and people in matching shirts dancing and singing. Their shirts state that this is the 6th annual celebration for this particular organization to bring an Afro-Brazillian traditional celebration to Copacabana beach. Read more